What Do I Do When My Horse ... ~!?!?!??!~
Rears, lunges, pushes through me, nips, won't stop, won't pick up hooves, doesn't listen, etc. etc. etc.
While rearing and lunging and kicking out are dangerous behaviors and shouldn't be tackled by the inexperienced, pushy, nippy, bargy, won't do this, won't do that ... those are things that can be "discussed" with your horse in a easy, non-forceful or hurtful manner BUT (there's always a "but", isn't there?) it means something or someone needs to change and guess what? It ain't the horse! All of the mentioned and more "disrespectful" behaviors from the horse are simply behaviors from the horse! They aren't "wrong" behaviors or "bad" behaviors. They're simply your horse's way of trying to tell you something and that "something" is ... you're not his leader.
Leadership isn't just a set of mechanical cues. Leadership is an attitude. Leadership is a state of being; a state of thinking and feeling. The "air" of leadership is one that can be felt strongly by both horse and human even though it cannot be seen or tangibly felt. Leadership IS. Why is leadership so important to establish when working or playing with horses? Because horses are hard-wired to HAVE to have a leader. That means, if the human is not the leader then the horse HAS to be the leader. So you see, its not about the horse being mean or stupid or dumb. It's about YOU and how you're thinking and how you're carrying yourself and what sort of "essence" you're emitting to your horse.
There's one simple way to become your horse's leader and thats to change your thinking. Change your thinking from "training" your horse to TEACHING your horse. That puts a whole different light on the topic and one that will change your demeanor and the energy you transmit to your horse. While many horses must "test" on a regular basis of just who really is the leader, that's OK ... that's part of how they function. Much like dealing with children, one wouldn't "train" a child to read by repetition, one teaches a child to read, step-by-step. Starting at the beginning with "A". In addition to this, if the child gets frustrated or upset a good teacher is not going to punish the child for not understanding but, instead, will try to change things in order to make the lesson easier for the child to understand. All the while, encouraging the child to relax, breath and try again.
When we change our thinking from "training" our horses to "teaching" our horses we become good leaders. Encouraging, enlightening, correcting, helping - with patience, a smile and an attitude that tells the student, "You CAN do this! Yes! You're getting it! See?" All of these things are positive energy and will reap positive results. Because there are no negative threatening energies the "student" will respond with the same positive attitude of willingness and courage.
Horses can't change their hardwiring; people can change their thinking, their mannerisms, their communication skills. Once you change your thinking from being "victimized" by the horse or from being "the boss" to being an encouraging teacher of the horse, you'll start to see changes in your horse's responses to you. Be a good TEACHER for your horse and forget about being the 'trainer'. Stop thinking in terms of the horse being "wrong" to that of the horse not understanding what you're asking. Ask, don't tell and be willing to break the "ask" down into the smallest chunks of steps that the HORSE needs - not what you think he outta understand. Then encourage the horse. Give the horse time and most of all ... if it ain't working then make a change! Don't forget to reward the small accomplishments, the "tries" in your encouragement to the next step. Become your horse's teacher.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Friday, January 4, 2008
Why Horses Learn the Wrong Thing by Andy Curry
Why Horses Learn
The Wrong Thing
There's an old saying that goes:
'If you want to know the value
of a 1/100th of a second, just
ask a Silver Medalist'
Timing.
Timing is critical in horse training
too.
Mess up your timing and you horse
may learn the wrong thing.
You see, because a horse learns from
the release, the release must be timed with what you're asking your horse to do.
If you ask Mr. Horse to step his back
leg in front of his other back leg as he disen- gages, then when he does it...
'Quit Asking'
Take off the pressure of asking him
to move immediately.
When he moves, just chill out for few
moments. Leave him alone and let him process what just happened.
That gets him thinkin'.
What is he thinking about?
In his own little horsey way he's kinda askin' himself, 'What did I do to get him to leave me alone?'
You know what that's called?
That's called 'Getting your horse to
give you the right answer.'
And you don't stop the pressure unless
and until he gives you the right answer.
Because if he doesn't give you the
answer you want, yet you release the pressure, he will learn the wrong answer.
And that, my friend, is often why horses don't learn the right thing to do.
This is a basic yet very powerful horse training principle.
Linda Braddy, one of our SuperStars of
Horse Training trainers teaches this (and lots of other cool stuff) in her video. You can see more about it by clicking on the following:
http://www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com/Braddy
She goes on to teach that you must have it clear in your mind what you want from your horse.
It's at this point you do NOT want to
be wishy washy about what you're asking from him.
Thus, if you want him moviong his feet, then specifically 'how' do you want him to move his feet?
See it in your mind and then get him to do it.
And don't stop asking unless and until he gives you the right answer.
Adios for today.
Sincerely,
Andy Curry
The Wrong Thing
There's an old saying that goes:
'If you want to know the value
of a 1/100th of a second, just
ask a Silver Medalist'
Timing.
Timing is critical in horse training
too.
Mess up your timing and you horse
may learn the wrong thing.
You see, because a horse learns from
the release, the release must be timed with what you're asking your horse to do.
If you ask Mr. Horse to step his back
leg in front of his other back leg as he disen- gages, then when he does it...
'Quit Asking'
Take off the pressure of asking him
to move immediately.
When he moves, just chill out for few
moments. Leave him alone and let him process what just happened.
That gets him thinkin'.
What is he thinking about?
In his own little horsey way he's kinda askin' himself, 'What did I do to get him to leave me alone?'
You know what that's called?
That's called 'Getting your horse to
give you the right answer.'
And you don't stop the pressure unless
and until he gives you the right answer.
Because if he doesn't give you the
answer you want, yet you release the pressure, he will learn the wrong answer.
And that, my friend, is often why horses don't learn the right thing to do.
This is a basic yet very powerful horse training principle.
Linda Braddy, one of our SuperStars of
Horse Training trainers teaches this (and lots of other cool stuff) in her video. You can see more about it by clicking on the following:
http://www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com/Braddy
She goes on to teach that you must have it clear in your mind what you want from your horse.
It's at this point you do NOT want to
be wishy washy about what you're asking from him.
Thus, if you want him moviong his feet, then specifically 'how' do you want him to move his feet?
See it in your mind and then get him to do it.
And don't stop asking unless and until he gives you the right answer.
Adios for today.
Sincerely,
Andy Curry
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
I Came to Give Life
“I came to give life – life in all its fullness.” -- John 10:10“An ordinary night with ordinary sheep and ordinary shepherds. And were it not for a God who loves to hook an ‘extra’ on the front of the ordinary, the night would have gone unnoticed. The sheep would have been forgotten, and the shepherds would have slept the night away.
But God dances amidst the common. And that night he did a waltz … The night was ordinary no more. “ From “Everyday Blessings” by Max Lucado
An ordinary night with ordinary sheep … an ordinary day with ordinary horses. But God dances amidst the common. And, so he does, also, among the horses. All we need to do is but watch and listen closely with pure heart and no intentions. Just watch. Smell. Listen. Feel. I believe that horses are God’s special creatures. He chose them to carry warriors to battle. He chose an ass to carry His son. He’s chosen a white horse upon which His son will return to the world. What wisdom lies beneath the brows of these animals? What can they tell us and teach us? What secrets do they hold directly from the dance with God? I CAN teach you, said Dorian. I CAN share secrets with you if you but take the time to wholly listen to me … to God. God gives many gifts to humans but He also bestows them upon the Horse. The Gift of love; the gift of life .. the JOY in life. The fullness in life and the full knowledge of our Savior’s being. Though we be in mortal bodies just as you our spirits soar high and wide and with love and gentleness. We love much and forgive quickly. How much more than that can we teach? With that comes much wisdom, much knowledge and the capabilities to soar with us. Yes, God dances amidst the common. Listen closely to the music of your heart so you, also, will dance amidst us and with God.
Monday, December 3, 2007
QUESTIONS ON FEEDING THE HORSE
A respone I wrote in response to a question about how to feed the horse. Thought there might be some of my readers who would benefit:
BASIC GUIDELINES for feeding light horses:
Feed 2 - 2 1/2# of TOTAL FEED per every 100# of live weight. This is per day. So, for a 1000# horse he/she would need a minimum of 20# of food a day. The BASE of this, if not ALL of it should be FORAGE ... hay, grass, weeds, brush, bark, herbs etc. Simple. 20# of Timothy Grass hay will give that horse approx. 16,000 calories a day minimum. If Alfalfa hay then it will be closer to 20,000 calories a day. A 1000# horse at maintenance will need at least 15,000 calories just to maintain weight. If more calories are needed then either increase the intake of forage, add some fat (vegetable oil) or start adding a little bit of high fat, low sugar/carb grain. To this diet, in order to make sure adequate vitamins and minerals are taken in, add an organic multivitamin and free choice minerals and salts. That plus fresh water at all times *should* be enough for the horse to maintain - GENERALLY SPEAKING for an adult, healthy light horse. A horse in light work will need upwards of 18,000 - 20,000 calories a day; a horse in medium work will need 20,000 - 25,000 or more calories.
That being said - every horse is individual and every horse will have different needs one from another. This is just a base guideline from which to formulate. The BEST way is to feed as much organic as possible so you know that the horse is getting the nutrients needed. Processed, chemicalized, etc. feeds lose their viability of nutrients the more they are processed (even tho they may be "enhanced" with added vits. and minerals).
BASIC GUIDELINES for feeding light horses:
Feed 2 - 2 1/2# of TOTAL FEED per every 100# of live weight. This is per day. So, for a 1000# horse he/she would need a minimum of 20# of food a day. The BASE of this, if not ALL of it should be FORAGE ... hay, grass, weeds, brush, bark, herbs etc. Simple. 20# of Timothy Grass hay will give that horse approx. 16,000 calories a day minimum. If Alfalfa hay then it will be closer to 20,000 calories a day. A 1000# horse at maintenance will need at least 15,000 calories just to maintain weight. If more calories are needed then either increase the intake of forage, add some fat (vegetable oil) or start adding a little bit of high fat, low sugar/carb grain. To this diet, in order to make sure adequate vitamins and minerals are taken in, add an organic multivitamin and free choice minerals and salts. That plus fresh water at all times *should* be enough for the horse to maintain - GENERALLY SPEAKING for an adult, healthy light horse. A horse in light work will need upwards of 18,000 - 20,000 calories a day; a horse in medium work will need 20,000 - 25,000 or more calories.
That being said - every horse is individual and every horse will have different needs one from another. This is just a base guideline from which to formulate. The BEST way is to feed as much organic as possible so you know that the horse is getting the nutrients needed. Processed, chemicalized, etc. feeds lose their viability of nutrients the more they are processed (even tho they may be "enhanced" with added vits. and minerals).
Friday, November 16, 2007
What Kind of Leader are YOU?
In her book Naked Liberty Amigo Publications,
Copyright 2005, Carolyn Resnick describes
leadership in horse herds. She observed three
kinds of leadership personalities; Dominant Leader, Submissive
Leader and True Leader. - WHAT KIND OF LEADER ARE YOU?
"Dominant horses
show no interest in leadership issues such as where
the herd should go for food or how to escape from
danger. Rather, they are interested in dominance
issues such as maintaining or raising their position in
the pecking order." Dominant leaders gain
respect but not love.
Submissive horses
appear sweet and gentle, yet
avoid the fight altogether and back up or back off at the
slightest push. Submissive horses are loved but
not respected.
A horse with true
leadership supports "the
needs of the whole community, from the strongest to
the weakest individual". She brings the herd to food
and looks out for safety. The true leader views the
purpose of leadership "to keep the herd together in a
unified manner for the common good" and "to
maintain peace and keep the horses focused." A
true leader is both respected and loved.
What kind of leader are you in your herd?
Monday, October 15, 2007
Is Your Horse Ready To Ride Today?
Received this note from "Andy" today and thought he put down in words something that I also advocate. I always have my students do a "preflight" test before getting on their horses for a ride.
"You ride what you lead."
Figured it would be helpful to many here.
------------------------------------------------------
Dear Gwen,
My friend and horse trainer Jim Rea
is big on making sure your horse says 'Yes'
to letting you ride him for the day.
How do you know your horse is saying
'Yes!'?
Essentially, your horse is saying yes
when he says he trusts you, that he's not feelin' spooky, and that you can stop him if you need to.
Now the next question is this.
How do you know he says he trusts you, he's not feelin' spooky, and that you can stop him?
Ahhh...that's the part we gotta know.
Although I can't explain it in detail in an email (my fingers would lock up from typing so much)...I'll give you a good summary.
First, bond with the horse when you first greet him for the day. Be sure you bond in a way that he knows you're the leader.
Second, do some take and give. Get your horse to yield in a couple quick exercises to make sure he willingly yields.
Third, use the intimacy technique. Basically, you will touch the horse in places that would normally be hard to do because being a prey animal makes him nervous.
But taught and done correctly, this is good test to see if you're in safe mode for riding. In other words, if your horse lets you handle him in this manner, he's saying he trusts you.
Fourth, you'll have him do a little dance. It's not 'really' a dance. But it kinda looks like it when you have him do this simple lunge.
After a couple easy circles, pull the lead rope to create a One-Rein Stop.
When doing it, you disengage his hindquarters and look for him to cross the inside rear leg in front of the outside leg as he disengages.
Once disengaged, ask for another bend of his neck in the One-Rein Stop fashion. When he gives, loop the rope around his butt. Gently pull and the pressure on his rear end creates a little discomfort. He'll move out and away from that.
Disengage hindquarters again. Ask for another neck bend.
Done.
Fifth, try a few things to check his sensitivity meter such as slapping a rope on the side of a metal wall while you and the horse are by it. (If you don't have a metal wall, do something that would pique his fear level and check his reaction - don't over do this)
See if he's extra skittish, fairly calm,...?
If he's pretty calm, you're doin' good. If not, it's a sign to you to be on your guard but not so much that your horse can read your body language as fear. That'll make him fearful.
Lastly, get in the saddle. Flex his neck to both sides. If does it well, you're in pretty good shape. If he doesn't, keep workin' at it some.
If he's never done it well, you need to work with him and get him doing it with very little pressure. ( four to six ounces tops)
After flexing the neck, have him step out and turn him to a direction you want to go. Check his turning and stopping.
Do it in a walk.
If he doesn't do it well in the walk he'll have even more trouble when moving faster - thus, beware.
Why do all this?
It tells you what you can more or less expect when you go for a ride.
It sounds like a lot to do, but it really doesn't take all that long and it's well worth the effort.
Besides, it'll show you where you need to work on your horse...if you need to, that is.
Jim Rea who showed me this is one of our pro trainers from Super Stars of Horse Training.
In his DVD, you'll see a very detailed instruction on how to do this. Click the following to know more:
http://www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com/Rea
Adios until manana.
Sincerely,
Andy Curry
www.horsetrainingandtips.com
www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com
"You ride what you lead."
Figured it would be helpful to many here.
------------------------------------------------------
Dear Gwen,
My friend and horse trainer Jim Rea
is big on making sure your horse says 'Yes'
to letting you ride him for the day.
How do you know your horse is saying
'Yes!'?
Essentially, your horse is saying yes
when he says he trusts you, that he's not feelin' spooky, and that you can stop him if you need to.
Now the next question is this.
How do you know he says he trusts you, he's not feelin' spooky, and that you can stop him?
Ahhh...that's the part we gotta know.
Although I can't explain it in detail in an email (my fingers would lock up from typing so much)...I'll give you a good summary.
First, bond with the horse when you first greet him for the day. Be sure you bond in a way that he knows you're the leader.
Second, do some take and give. Get your horse to yield in a couple quick exercises to make sure he willingly yields.
Third, use the intimacy technique. Basically, you will touch the horse in places that would normally be hard to do because being a prey animal makes him nervous.
But taught and done correctly, this is good test to see if you're in safe mode for riding. In other words, if your horse lets you handle him in this manner, he's saying he trusts you.
Fourth, you'll have him do a little dance. It's not 'really' a dance. But it kinda looks like it when you have him do this simple lunge.
After a couple easy circles, pull the lead rope to create a One-Rein Stop.
When doing it, you disengage his hindquarters and look for him to cross the inside rear leg in front of the outside leg as he disengages.
Once disengaged, ask for another bend of his neck in the One-Rein Stop fashion. When he gives, loop the rope around his butt. Gently pull and the pressure on his rear end creates a little discomfort. He'll move out and away from that.
Disengage hindquarters again. Ask for another neck bend.
Done.
Fifth, try a few things to check his sensitivity meter such as slapping a rope on the side of a metal wall while you and the horse are by it. (If you don't have a metal wall, do something that would pique his fear level and check his reaction - don't over do this)
See if he's extra skittish, fairly calm,...?
If he's pretty calm, you're doin' good. If not, it's a sign to you to be on your guard but not so much that your horse can read your body language as fear. That'll make him fearful.
Lastly, get in the saddle. Flex his neck to both sides. If does it well, you're in pretty good shape. If he doesn't, keep workin' at it some.
If he's never done it well, you need to work with him and get him doing it with very little pressure. ( four to six ounces tops)
After flexing the neck, have him step out and turn him to a direction you want to go. Check his turning and stopping.
Do it in a walk.
If he doesn't do it well in the walk he'll have even more trouble when moving faster - thus, beware.
Why do all this?
It tells you what you can more or less expect when you go for a ride.
It sounds like a lot to do, but it really doesn't take all that long and it's well worth the effort.
Besides, it'll show you where you need to work on your horse...if you need to, that is.
Jim Rea who showed me this is one of our pro trainers from Super Stars of Horse Training.
In his DVD, you'll see a very detailed instruction on how to do this. Click the following to know more:
http://www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com/Rea
Adios until manana.
Sincerely,
Andy Curry
www.horsetrainingandtips.com
www.SuperStarsOfHorseTraining.com
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